Learn italiano

Learn italiano: a cat's tale

Learn italiano: a cat’s tale

The cat felloff 3rd floor window still last month so we dashed to the animal hospital at three in the morning. Sitting in the waiting room my mind was assailed by a long forgotten saying “tanto va la gatta al lardo che ci lascia lo zampino” (if you keep tempting danger, you’ll eventually pay for it).
Any thought of curiosity k…the cat was of course immediatly banished. For weeks she’d been making a beeline for that open attic window but her path had been barred just in time. And now here I was paying not a zampino (a paw) but an arm and a leg for her hip operation.

As she plunged to the concrete path below aat the human equivalent age of 65, I wonder if she thought “sono del gatto” ( essere del gatto: to have had it, no way out). And when I discovered her hidden near the frront door, lying in frightened silence, refusing to come in I thought to myself “gatta ci cova” (something’s up). It had in fact taken ages to find her as “al buio tutti i gatti sono bigi” (all cats are grey (alike) in the dark).

After the operaton she stayed ina  cage for three weeks. It was a small rabbit compound and she would have been excused for commenting that there was “no room to swing a cat” (and here I admit to being stumped -can any readers supply a good equivalent in Italian? We forced antibiotics down her unwilling throat. Unpleasant pink stuff which could have made her “fare i gattini”. No not have kittens but to vomit, throw up.
In the roasting 35 degree heat of July she went for a check-up. At three in the afternoon the streets of San Concordio were deserted and in the hospital there were suitably enough “quattro gatti” i.e. hardly anybody.

On week four she was finally allowed out, and watching her adjust to semifreedom it was abvious why Italian babies learn to “gattonare” (crawl) before they can walk.
Week five: doctor’s order “leave her free ina room with no furniture (well, we all have one of those…) and no possibility of jumping”. that’s was a real “gatta da pelare” ( literally a cat to skin, in the sense of a really hard task that nobody else wants). The only solution was to trail after her- thank heavens to laptop is wireless-nipping all climbing efforts in the bud. Now I know what it is to be in “gattabuia” (prison).

She’s last improved leaps and bounds (sorry) but outside roaming is till off limits. So to give her some exercise I take her round the garden on a long leash. Any casual passerby must think “quella signora fa ridere i gatti” (some woul d say “polli”) “hat woman would make a cat laugh”. I’m taking no chances, the first weeks were “una vita da cane” ( a dog’s life).

Then there are near hits. The straight translation would be understood. “When the cat’s away, the mice will pay”, well in Italy they dance. “Quando il gatto non c’è i topi ballano!” Pity that “to let the cat out of the bag” can’t be “far sfuggire il gatto dal sacco” instead of “far sfuggire il segreto”. Far too tame. And lastly there’s the so near but too far category. in the very first Italian “Big Brother” a quiet, well spoken but sinously beautiful girl had the abit of feigning total disinterest in any unavailable male contestant only to pounce when his guard was down. The other girls nicknamed her “la gattamorta”. Very catty! But dead cat? Did she wear a tatty old fur collar? Those two sharp english syllables convey some of the name’s meaning but lose the sensuous danger of the long drawn out italian syllables which take full advantage of the female use of the world. Trust the italians to distinguish between “il gatto e la gatta”.

Now did I hear somebody say cat’s cradle?

Tuscany tours

Lucca

Lucca and Pisa in Harmony

Forget all the old jokes about the ancient rivalry between Lucca and pisa. Not only is it the latest idea to promote both cities as a joint tourist destination, but this year, the annual concert for San Michele in Lucca will feature choirs from Lucca and Pisa combining in harmony.
On 25 September in Lucca, repeated on 26 September in pisa, audiences can hear the Polifonica Lucchese, the Società Corale Pisana and members of the vocal group Stereo Tipi come together to perform Braham’s towering choral work, the Deutsches Requiem
The initiative comes jointly from Egisto Matteucci, musical director of the Polifonica Lucchese and Gianpaolo Mazzoli, maestro of the Società Corale Pisana and also Director of Lucca’s prestigiuos music school, the Istituto Boccherini. In the version of the Requiem for two pianos and timpani, the choirs will be joined by pianists Carlo Palese and Simone Soldati and timpanist David Mazzei. the solo vocal parts are taken by two favourites with Lucca audiences, Korean soprano Hye Won Nam, and lucchese bass Francesco Facini.
First performed in 1868, when Brahams was 34 years old, the Deutsches Requiem, so called because it was written with German (rather than Latin) text, has been variously described as ” a masterpieces of exceptional vision”, a masterful fusion of new and old techiniques and by Clara Schuman as ” a truly tremendous piece of art”. It was dedicated by Brahams to his mother and to Robert Schuman, both of whom had recently died, but also “to humanity in general”.

Concerto per San Michele, at Church of San Michele in Foro, Lucca at 5.30 pm on Saturday 25 September, tickets at the door, euro 10,00. In Pisa on Sunday 26 in the Church of San francesco at 9 pm.

Lucca: S.Croce Celebrations

Luminara

Ante Diem Sanctae Crucis Medieval Market.
Arts and crafts. Piazza S. Frediano, real Collegio (behiand the church) Street Entertainment from 18.00.  (10, 11 and 12 september)

Luminara
The centre of the town is candlelit as the Religious Procession leaves San Frediano at 20.00 and proceeds to the Cathedral. 23.30 fireworks visble from city walls. (13 september).

Flag throwing
Piazza S. Martino 19.00 on 14 September.

Secret place in Tuscany

Badia di Cantignano Church

Badia di Cantignano (Capannori City)

The name refers to an instrument of Cantignano 783 “in Actum Cantinianu” concerning a donation made by a Lombard Lucca for a daughter. The small church dating back to centuries. VII-VIII, with adjoining Benedictine abbey dedicated to St. Saviour seems to have been built on an old Roman building intended to baths, and was subsequently replaced by a new Romanesque church with a Latin cross in the sec. XIII, when the Benedictine monks Camaldolesi took over after the Cluniac reform.

The Benedictines took place first and reclamation of sewage water, thus bringing new land under cultivation, the Camaldolesi is also devoted to the cultivation of land and forestry. This place was given in fief to the bishops of Lucca by Otto with diploma of December 14, 1209, confirmed February 15, 1355 by Emperor Charles IV. The monastery was suppressed in 1419 and then aggregated with his possessions to the church and canons of the Cathedral of Lucca with the obligation to keep a parish priest.

In sec. XVIII The church was converted into Baroque style – eighteenth century, the length was shortened and demolished Romanesque façade. During the years 1965-66 it was restored the priesthood and the apse and there were important archaeological discoveries.Camaldolese the church is still visible outside the apse with pilasters suspended. The bell tower replaced the earlier, smaller, 1898. Inside is a valuable painting by Agostino Marti.

Toscana

Elba Island

Elba Island… 
Napoleon Slept Here

Sitting just to the west of the Italian mainland somewhat south of Pisa lies the island of Elba. It is common knowledge that Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to Elba when nobody in France knew what else do with him but there is much more to this “Toscana” island. So much more that it appears to have multiple personalities, which for the visitor is very desirable.

There is the Elba with umbrella covered sandy beaches, pleasure boat harbors, and crowds of bathers. But there is also the Elba with a quiet rocky coastline, aromatic pine forests, and ancient hillside towns. There is also the Elba of ruins, archeological sites and abandoned mines. Napoleon Bonaparte’s s brief rule over the island in the 1800’s is but a suggestion of the push and pull of past powers.

Elba is ancient and complex geologically as well as culturally. It is fair to say that the mineral riches of the island have lured many throughout ancient times and continues to draw mineralogy pros and amateurs alike up into the hills. Elba has been inhabited since early peoples first learned how to cross the narrow stretch of sea to the island from what is now Piombino on mainland Italy. Stone age tools, some made from stone not found naturally on the island, that have been discovered on Elba attest to this. It was the Etruscans who located and first extracted the mineral wealth of copper and later, the rich iron ore deposits.

Historians believe that the Iron Age in Italy began on Elba. These mineral treasures attracted the Greeks and the Romans along with Spaniards, French and English. Saracen pirates often raided the island and surviving fortifications in Portofarraio and elsewhere stand as reminders of how valuable Elba was. Mining, with various starts and stops due to the demands and consequences of the process (especially to the forests, depleted to fire the smelting furnaces in ancient times) continued through World War II. Elba has since turned its attention to tourism for current prosperity.

Elba is the largest of the Tuscan Islands at about 86 square miles which is quite a bit larger than Capraia. It is large enough to venture out for a day’s exploration knowing that the trip back will not be very long. We stayed on the coast to the west of the town of Procchio, which is centered on the Northern side of the island. Our rented apartment was within a 20 minute walk of Marciana Marina which served as our base for food shopping, dining out, and strolling around in the evening.

This is a lively town that did not feel overcrowded with a good choice of restaurants and interesting small shops. In the evening, craftspeople set up their tables along the waterfront and a pleasant mixture of families, young lovers, and seniors were out enjoying the breeze of a warm July night. By night or by day, Marciana Marina had a nice balance of activity without a feeling of orchestrated tourism.

One issue that bears mentioning is that walking might best be limited to within the towns and along specific trails through the mountains. The roads are narrow and winding, often without shoulders. The drivers were not particularly bad (for normally lead-footed Italians) but there just isn’t much space to walk along the busier coastal roads without having to pay close attention to where you are and what is coming around the bend. Our initial thought of renting bicycles was negated by our first day’s walk to town because the hazards would have made it unappealing at best. Having a car to explore the island is a very big advantage though there are nice air conditioned busses that maintain a regular service around the island.

Above Marciana Marina at the foot of Monte Capanne, the largest mountain on Elba, are two small towns that retain their ancient roots. Marciana Castello is the older of the two and boasts fortifications that resisted attack by Dragut the corsair, one of the most legendary Saracen pirates to plunder the Mediterranean in the 1500’s. With nasty guys like Dragut appearing suddenly into the harbor it makes perfect sense why so many towns along the Italian coast were either perched high on rocky cliffs or sited well above the sea. What appeals to us as charming and picturesque today was a matter of survival when these towns were built. Poggio Terme is also very beautiful and ancient with a small church dating from the 7th century. Above these towns, often with clouds grazing the upper ridge is the granite outcrop of Monte Capanne.

The sea surrounding Elba is clear, clean and easy to get to but it is the diversity of the island that has left a lasting impression and a desire to return. The topography and vegetation varies from one end of this small island to the other with rounded granite outcroppings and low-growing plants to the west, a forested interior of pine and chestnut, and the rugged multi-hued peaks and tree-covered hills of the mining centers to the east. One feels they have traveled far, based upon the views, in only 30 minutes.

The mining history and its remains are fascinating not to mention the fact that the mineral wealth of the ancient rocks of Elba have by no means been eliminated. Rock hunting for Neanderthal stone tools to semi-precious gems is still practiced. Attention to avoiding the well known vipers of Elba needs to be maintained whenever poking around their habitat but that should no more prevent exploration than does the rattlesnake keep people away from the Grand Canyon.

Aside from the ever-present emperor of France, history is softly spoken in Elba but very much alive at every turn. It is said that Napoleon often sat by the sea on the west coast and gazed longingly at the island of Corsica in the distant haze. For those of us that have not lost an empire, reversing one’s view back to Elba is more than enough.