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Vinci town

Better known as the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci, romantic Vinci holds the same magic as the rest of Tuscany. It takes just half an hour’s drive from Florence through the scenic SS 67 route towards Empoli that takes you right to Vinci. Visitors to Vinci would appreciate the town better if they park on the outskirts and explore this medieval village by foot. As one nears the town, a big wooden sculpture of the Vitruvian man welcomes you. The square overlooks the valley below and is steep with a fabulous panoramic view. Vinci’s mysterious origins date back to the Etruscans.

Spectacular as the town where the famous Leonardo da Vinci was born, the small hill town of Vinci has not changed much for the past 544 years. Picturesque stone houses still cling to the strong battlements of the castle. Built in the Middle Ages, the castle came under the rule of the Florentines in 1254. Located on the hilltop, the castle stood witness as many a battle raged between Florence and Pisa. But the enchantment and peace of Vinci is still retained and enjoyed by the 14,000 people living there today. The borough of Vinci is situated in the heart of Tuscany a few kilometres from Florence, close to Pisa, and an hour’s drive from Lucca and Siena.

As an important landmark in Vinci, the tall church bell tower can still be seen for miles. Surrounded by fertile farmland, the hillsides around Vince are lush with vineyards and olive groves that grow around in the lovely landscapes. Leonardo da Vinci’s presence can be felt everywhere adding to the mysterious charm of Vinci. The slopes that are seen above Vinci rise to the Mount Albano where Leonardo da Vinci loved to walk. Scenic and beautiful, silvery streaks of small mountain streams run down from the mountain past Vinci to the valley of the Arno River below. Inspired by what he saw around him, Leonardo’s enchanted childhood led him to explore and study the woods, natural life and streams of Vinci which he depicted in his sketches. Later as he grew, Leonardo reflected these scenes in his detailed life-like paintings of plants and wildflowers at the feet of the angel in The Annunciation and the rocky caves and pools of water surrounding the figures in The Virgin of the Rocks.

Another feature that has endeared Vinci as an immortal town is its curious castle that is known as “The Ship’s Castle” because of its unusual shape. This castle houses the fascinating Il Museo Leonardiano Di Vinci. Displaying Leonardo’s mechanical, scientific and engineering inventions, the museum showcases Leonardo’s work through models constructed according to the original dimensions. The museum evolves over two floors and has computers which enable the visitors to view video presentations, play interactive games and acquire more information. The important feature of the models is that it displays the transition of Leonardo’s sketches into reality that cover a range of domed buildings, cars and planes to underwater suits. There is also a library that has a complete collection of his observations and ideas.

The castle opens its ancient path to view the lovely medieval town of Vinci. Quite close to the museum, the church of Santa Croce echoes with the whisper of legends that the great Leonardo da Vinci was baptized in its hallowed premises. Though this lovely little church has been renovated several times it still retains its medieval charm. Vinci’s winding streets, alleyways and stairways are fascinating with a wonderful discovery round every corner. Vinci’s repertoire of restaurants and shops are not wide and varied but small and wonderful. Vinci’s cuisine and crafts are a delight to experience as well as its great extra virgin olive oil and the Chianti Putto Montalbano, the local wine of Vinci.

Just a few kilometers away, the main town of Anciamo stands where Leonardo was born. Timeless and unique, Vinci opens paths to visit and be inspired by the town of Montelupo Fiorenti that is close by and famous for its ceramic. The Frescobaldi Tower houses the Glass Museum in Montelupo. The ceramic studio of the famous artisan, Fratelli Taccini can be found in Sovigliana di Vinci that displays the talented heritage of the Taccini family. The ‘Il Cristo Croce Fisso’ was made of clay and wrought iron in 1995 by Taccini. Vinci holds the essence of romance and fascination that has brought countless visitors to its lovely village to linger and absorb the magic of mystery.

Some links:
www.museoleonardiano.it
www.vinciturismo.it
www.prolocovinci.com

Tuscany dishes

Lardo of Colonnata

The Lardo of Colonnata
Marble is the reason that the tiny village of Colonnata exists, but the Lardo has made the town famous. This poor man’s food that was once served on bread rubbed with a tomato and onion, now commands top prices and draws visitors to this remote mountain area in the heart of the Carrara marble quarries. But what is it, and how is it made? Why is Lardo di Colonnata so special, not just a piece of pork fat, used to flavor soups and stews, but a highly prized treat?

The preparation of lardo has been documented for nearly as long as written history has existed. The laws of Justinian demanded that legionnaires be fed ample doses of lard to keep them healthy and energetic. In the 13th century, the first statutes regulating lard making appeared. Lardo was a part of the rural life of all of Italy.

In Colonnata, the local marble became tubs to hold the lardo, chiseled from the stones that were unfit for artists and artisans because of their brittle nature. These chiseled tubs still are used in the making of Lardo di Colonnata. They are bigger now, but their shape and use are the same. This marble is dry, glassy and porous, too fragile for use in statuary or decoration, but perfect as refrigeration: it protects the lardo from humidity, and lets oxygen circulate around the curing fat. There are no refrigeration plants in Colonnata. Preservatives are banned; it is the marble and the special curing that allow this product to exist so naturally.

The marble basins are washed and treated with vinegar each September. When they are ready, the lard making process begins and lasts until spring. The pigs arrive from farms that are regulated by the Parma and San Daniele prosciutto consortiums; they must be at least nine months old, and weigh 160 kilos. When the pigs are butchered, the curing begins.

The walls of the tubs are rubbed with garlic, and the slabs of lard are massaged with sea salt, which is then rinsed away. The bottom of the tub is covered with another special salt, then layers of lard are added, one on top of the other. What makes the Lardo di Colonnata unique is layers of ground black pepper, chopped garlic, and chopped rosemary that are added between each slab of lard before the entire tub is left to cure for six months. Additional spices, such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, oregano, star anise, and sage are added according to the special recipe of the individual lard maker. The basins are sealed with marble slabs, and for six months they are checked to make sure the curing is coming along as expected. The resulting product is amazingly sweet and delicate. In Tuscany, they say “it dissolves in the mouth.”

www.lardodicolonnata.org

Tuscan villages

Fortress of Montecarlo

The fortress of Montecarlo and the Bastion of Cerruglio

The fortress is entered from the steep slope that leads to Piazza Garibaldi.
The mastio, the higest part which also includes the ancient bastion of Cerruglio, is the oldest part of the monument complex; the head of the frotress is almost cylindrical in shape and is situated at the northwest edge.
It is completed on the opposite side by two square toers called the tower of the Aapparizione (in the west) and the Cerruglio, also known as the Santa Barbara tower (in the east), which creates an imposing, triangular-shaped layout.
The enlargment of the fortress dates back to the second half of the 15th century or the first years of the 16th, when a new shaped structure with a semicircular tower was added and the ancient keep was adapted to accomodate the new strategies of attack after the introduction of firearms. Other fortification work was carried out under the medici: Cosimo I ordered the bastions to be raised, but this was never carried out even though the work began again in 1592 under Ferdinand I.
No longer considered to be suitable for military purposes, the fortress was offered for sale by Pietro Leopoldo, Grand Duke of Tuscany, and it became private property in 1775. The restoration and maintance work on the monumental complex has been carried out by the owners themselves and it can be visited by appointment.

Italian itineraries

Walls of Lastra a Signa

Lastra a Signa
Old and ancient, Lastra a Signa in Tuscany derives its name from the Lastra dei Gangalandi family who held the fiefdom. But its history goes back to the year 1000 when the Cadolingi di Fucecchio lords held Lastra a Signa under their rule. Lastra a Signa is positioned at a strategic point right in the middle of the Arno Valley. Having access to the sea, Lastra became a focal port for Florence and Pisa. The city center stands on the foundations of the fortifications built on Mount Cascioli and Mount Orlando. Lastra defended itself against continuous sieges against Florence and Pisa. In 1377, the town of Lastra was encircled with town walls and a crenallated tower.

Enclosed by its medieval walls and the gates of Pisane and Bacchio, the Saint Mary Church built in 1404 is in the middle of Lastra. The lovely works of art are still preserved in the church displaying a painting by Francesco Conti named “Saint Rocco in Glory” and another painting portraying “Our Lady”, that dates back to the 14th century. You can also find a memorable work that portrays Podestà’s Tabernacle with a fresco dating back to the 16th century with “Our Lady with the Child between the Saints John Baptist and Francis”. The Praetorian Palace in Lastra a Signa still has the emblems of the Podestàs on the walls. The breathtaking Villa di Bellosguardo or the villa with a beautiful view in Lastra was owned by the famous tenor Enrico Caruso. The lovely Renaissance Villa Bellosguardo was earlier owned by the Marquises Pucci and was renowned for its fabulous architecture. As you enter its elegant doorway, you will find beautiful rooms with soaring vaulted ceilings, grand staircases, frescoed friezes and deep pink velvet upholstered furniture. Ornate in structure with rich and varied architecture, the gorgeous Ballroom leads to the refreshing Orangerie that is striking with fantastic views. Historical and artistic, Lastra a Signa is famous for its ancient churches, villas and country homes of the nobles of the Middle Ages and a retreat of the rich and the famous through the Renaissance period.

Lastra a Signa opens out her beautiful countryside with the stunning colors of Tuscany. As the eye traverses the rich scenery, the famous Villa Pandolfini comes into view with its lush private forests. This beautiful castle dates back to the 1200s and was built by the Medicis for their family and friends who loved to hunt. Later, the Pandolfini family owned this lovely villa and also another historical one called ‘Le Torre’ that was a walled castle from the 1300s. Agnolo di Filippo, who was a great friend of Cosimo de Medici, lived at Villa Pandolfini for 12 years. It was here that he wrote his historical dialogues on the governing of the family. He died in 1446 at the age of 86. In 1434, Filippo’s nephew renovated the villa with fabulous architecture with the date, 1488, engraved on its wall that portrays the time of the completion of the renovation.

Created with stunning architecture with a linear concept, the harmony and space have been balanced to please the eye and deliver an aesthetic sense. The famous architect, Benedetto da Rovezzano executed the renovation with a keen eye for detail displaying beautiful carved windows, a lovely loggia, excellent stonework and free flowing lines. The Villa has been host to several personalities including Napoleon, King Carlo VIII of France and King Charles VIII of France.

The early 1800s saw the Pandolfini family selling their antique villa to the Samminiatelli family. They in turn sold the villa to the De Prat family who had returned after their exile from France following the Revolution. The estate ranges over a huge area of private forests, vineyards and olive groves. Tranquil, stunning and spacious, the villa is just 10 minutes away from Florence. The Villa showcases antiques, frescoed ceilings, a lovely loggia and an amazing Renaissance garden. With elegance and an air of mystery surrounding the Villa, inviting paths lead to beautiful walks, an outdoor dining area and a tranquil ambience. The Villa Pandolfini is vantage starting point for great excursions into the heart of Tuscany. The estate produces extra virgin olive oil and typical Chianti wine under detailed and careful supervision.

The Villa Pandolfini basks under the Tuscan sun and is adorned with frescoes, mirrors with gold gilt, terracotta floors and elegant columns carved in stone. Decorated beautifully, the rooms are bedecked with silk curtains, ornate fireplaces and a beautiful antique crystal chandelier. The Villa was originally built as a hunting lodge for nobles of bygone days and is a fabulous retreat just a few miles from Florence. The gallery kitchen is a work of wonder with its enormous fireplace and an old marble sink. The Villa Pandolfini is a work of art, a picturesque getaway and enhances lifestyles with a rich and royal air.

Web site: www.comune.lastra-a-signa.fi.it

Tuscan villages

Tuscan villages: San Gennaro
The village of San Gennaro is a settlement on the ridge of the boundary with the valley of Pescia di Collodi and, according to martyrologies of just after the time of San Frediano (A. Mazzarosa, 1933) in dates back to the 6th century. Its foundation was perhaps due to a Neapolitan community that had emigrated here after the huge eruption of Vesuvius in 512, a hypotesis which is also borne out by the fact that there was a street in the village called Gragnano and another near Naples.

The ancient village of San Gennaro has a particular town layout which “pivots” around the parish church and above which the town layout consists of a series of villas standing next to each other and connected by enclosure walls, parks and family oratories. Called “Il Castello”, this is the oldest part of village and the richiest of history, and from here there is a splendid view of the lucca plain.
The village below the church is composed of about one hundred buildings built in series and all with similar characters (the size of the buildings is determined by the lenght of the wooden beams), with living quarters on the upper florr and shops on the ground floor.
the majority of the houses probably date back the the 16th century, but on many of them the date chiselled into the portal is 1746, the year in which the reorganisation of the town and buildings took place, which also led to the removal of the outside stairs.
Although the Municipality of san gennaro had been established and had its own statue since the 12th century, the village did not have a place where meeting could be held and they took place in the parish church.

It was for this reason that in 16000 a town hall was built in the area below the church.
Next to the church is the Boccella building, an architectural complex that is now being restored for use as Museum of Oil and Wine, with a wine shop and tasting room, a meeting room and areas especially equipped for top quality tourist accomodation. This is also where the head office of the Fondazione Palazzo Boccella will be situated and the entire complex will be run by a consortium of public bodies and private producers and entrepreneurs.