Church of S. Quirico at Guamo, called “in Casale”
The small church of San Quirico is built in stone from the nearby quarry at Guamo. It is built like a cottage and it has a nave and fairly small apse. The door in the facade is surmounted by a lintel resting on two brackets.
Both the layout and the size of the stone bosses in the facing suggest that it is quite old and probably dates back to 1023, when it was first mentioned in documents. During the restoration work of about 1930, some 16th and 17th century sepulchral slabs were found and new altar was made from a single stone.
An unusual altarpiece of the Giotto school, a triptych incorporated in a quadrangular structure and surmounted by an inflected-arch lunette, comes from this church; now in the Villa Guinigi museum in Lucca, it depicts the Vergine in Trono con Bambino (on the central panel), and Maddalena and San Michele Arcangelo (on the side panels).
Better known as the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci, romantic Vinci holds the same magic as the rest of Tuscany. It takes just half an hour’s drive from Florence through the scenic SS 67 route towards Empoli that takes you right to Vinci. Visitors to Vinci would appreciate the town better if they park on the outskirts and explore this medieval village by foot. As one nears the town, a big wooden sculpture of the Vitruvian man welcomes you. The square overlooks the valley below and is steep with a fabulous panoramic view. Vinci’s mysterious origins date back to the Etruscans.
Spectacular as the town where the famous Leonardo da Vinci was born, the small hill town of Vinci has not changed much for the past 544 years. Picturesque stone houses still cling to the strong battlements of the castle. Built in the Middle Ages, the castle came under the rule of the Florentines in 1254. Located on the hilltop, the castle stood witness as many a battle raged between Florence and Pisa. But the enchantment and peace of Vinci is still retained and enjoyed by the 14,000 people living there today. The borough of Vinci is situated in the heart of Tuscany a few kilometres from Florence, close to Pisa, and an hour’s drive from Lucca and Siena.
As an important landmark in Vinci, the tall church bell tower can still be seen for miles. Surrounded by fertile farmland, the hillsides around Vince are lush with vineyards and olive groves that grow around in the lovely landscapes. Leonardo da Vinci’s presence can be felt everywhere adding to the mysterious charm of Vinci. The slopes that are seen above Vinci rise to the Mount Albano where Leonardo da Vinci loved to walk. Scenic and beautiful, silvery streaks of small mountain streams run down from the mountain past Vinci to the valley of the Arno River below. Inspired by what he saw around him, Leonardo’s enchanted childhood led him to explore and study the woods, natural life and streams of Vinci which he depicted in his sketches. Later as he grew, Leonardo reflected these scenes in his detailed life-like paintings of plants and wildflowers at the feet of the angel in The Annunciation and the rocky caves and pools of water surrounding the figures in The Virgin of the Rocks.
Another feature that has endeared Vinci as an immortal town is its curious castle that is known as “The Ship’s Castle” because of its unusual shape. This castle houses the fascinating Il Museo Leonardiano Di Vinci. Displaying Leonardo’s mechanical, scientific and engineering inventions, the museum showcases Leonardo’s work through models constructed according to the original dimensions. The museum evolves over two floors and has computers which enable the visitors to view video presentations, play interactive games and acquire more information. The important feature of the models is that it displays the transition of Leonardo’s sketches into reality that cover a range of domed buildings, cars and planes to underwater suits. There is also a library that has a complete collection of his observations and ideas.
The castle opens its ancient path to view the lovely medieval town of Vinci. Quite close to the museum, the church of Santa Croce echoes with the whisper of legends that the great Leonardo da Vinci was baptized in its hallowed premises. Though this lovely little church has been renovated several times it still retains its medieval charm. Vinci’s winding streets, alleyways and stairways are fascinating with a wonderful discovery round every corner. Vinci’s repertoire of restaurants and shops are not wide and varied but small and wonderful. Vinci’s cuisine and crafts are a delight to experience as well as its great extra virgin olive oil and the Chianti Putto Montalbano, the local wine of Vinci.
Just a few kilometers away, the main town of Anciamo stands where Leonardo was born. Timeless and unique, Vinci opens paths to visit and be inspired by the town of Montelupo Fiorenti that is close by and famous for its ceramic. The Frescobaldi Tower houses the Glass Museum in Montelupo. The ceramic studio of the famous artisan, Fratelli Taccini can be found in Sovigliana di Vinci that displays the talented heritage of the Taccini family. The ‘Il Cristo Croce Fisso’ was made of clay and wrought iron in 1995 by Taccini. Vinci holds the essence of romance and fascination that has brought countless visitors to its lovely village to linger and absorb the magic of mystery.
As ancient as time itself, Malmantile stands as a fortified village. A few kilometers down the old Via Pisana from Lastra A Signa leads in the direction of Montelupo Fiorentino. There among the majestic hills, the Medieval Castle of Malmantile beckons with the ancient hands of time. Though not a very big fortification, the castle built in the 15th century is unusual with its strong walls still holding out against the elements of time. Though the origins are mysterious, Malmantile was a military stronghold on the old road that connected Florence with Pisa before it evolved into a town. An interesting fact accompanies the name ‘Mamantile’. As the legends traverse back to the 4th century, S. Ambrogio, the bishop of Milan was travelling to central Italy and en route met S. Zanobi, the bishop of Florence. The bishops were put up at a homestead there. When S.Ambrogio left, he was so upset at the bad treatment he received there and cursed the place. A few days later, the homestead crashed and fell to the ground. After this strange event, the place was named ‘Malmantile’ which in ancient Italian meant ‘bad welcome’.
The Gothic walled enclosure dates back to 1424 and was one of the first of its kind to be built. As a fortified town wall, it was a classic example with machicolations along the perimeter, the style of which was used through the following years. As another accolade, the famous architect, Brunelleschi was involved in its construction. Forming a perfect rectangle, the walls have a dimension of 125×70 meters with 2 gates. Though the walls still stand, there is little remaining of the machicoulis. Formed by brackets in stone, four rounded projections were built with bricks to support the ogival arch made of “beccatelli” or gray stone. On the alternate arches there were holes or protrusions with square embrasures, from where, during an attack, defenders dropped heavy objects or boiling liquids on the enemies who climbed up the wall. The whole boundary wall had slits at ten meter intervals to permit a man armed with bow and arrows to look through and aim at the enemy.
The town-walls have square towers at its angles and two towers at the middle of the longest sides. The two gates have curved arches structured on the outside of the town wall with loopholes on both sides. Part of the wall facing Pisa on the southwest still retains the machicolation with a parapet. At the south of the gate, the walls are pierced by the windows of the houses built on the inside. The northwest side is open but almost covered by the houses built on the outside. The gate that leads to Florence is in dire need of renovation. The walls were very important as the Florentine Republic found it necessary to control the road leading to the enemy boundary of Pisa. But the construction of the walls took time and was finished only after Pisa was conquered. The fortified strategic point of the road to Pisa lost its importance after the fall of the Florentine Republic in 1530. As a result of which Malmantile remained an isolated post and was not touched by modernity.
Today, Malmantile is quiet and tranquil with few or no tourists. This ancient town houses a few shops, a school, a pharmacy and a post office. There is a lovely 16th century cantina there that serves traditional fare such as, game dishes among which you can find Sweet and Sour Hare/Rabbit. You can also find a delicious and filling ‘panino con salame e stracchino’ or a bread roll with salami and rich cheese and plenty of Chianti Colle Bertini made at the Fattoria. Malmantile between the months of May and June re-enacts the ‘Festa Medievale‘ or a medieval festival or joust.
The Lardo of Colonnata
Marble is the reason that the tiny village of Colonnata exists, but the Lardo has made the town famous. This poor man’s food that was once served on bread rubbed with a tomato and onion, now commands top prices and draws visitors to this remote mountain area in the heart of the Carrara marble quarries. But what is it, and how is it made? Why is Lardo di Colonnata so special, not just a piece of pork fat, used to flavor soups and stews, but a highly prized treat?
The preparation of lardo has been documented for nearly as long as written history has existed. The laws of Justinian demanded that legionnaires be fed ample doses of lard to keep them healthy and energetic. In the 13th century, the first statutes regulating lard making appeared. Lardo was a part of the rural life of all of Italy.
In Colonnata, the local marble became tubs to hold the lardo, chiseled from the stones that were unfit for artists and artisans because of their brittle nature. These chiseled tubs still are used in the making of Lardo di Colonnata. They are bigger now, but their shape and use are the same. This marble is dry, glassy and porous, too fragile for use in statuary or decoration, but perfect as refrigeration: it protects the lardo from humidity, and lets oxygen circulate around the curing fat. There are no refrigeration plants in Colonnata. Preservatives are banned; it is the marble and the special curing that allow this product to exist so naturally.
The marble basins are washed and treated with vinegar each September. When they are ready, the lard making process begins and lasts until spring. The pigs arrive from farms that are regulated by the Parma and San Daniele prosciutto consortiums; they must be at least nine monthsold, and weigh 160 kilos. When the pigs are butchered, the curing begins.
The walls of the tubs are rubbed with garlic, and the slabs of lard are massaged with sea salt, which is then rinsed away. The bottom of the tub is covered with another special salt, then layers of lard are added, one on top of the other. What makes the Lardo di Colonnata unique is layers of ground black pepper, chopped garlic, and chopped rosemary that are added between each slab of lard before the entire tub is left to cure for six months. Additional spices, such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, oregano, star anise, and sage are added according to the special recipe of the individual lard maker. The basins are sealed with marble slabs, and for six months they are checked to make sure the curing is coming along as expected. The resulting product is amazingly sweet and delicate. In Tuscany, they say “it dissolves in the mouth.”
The fortress of Montecarlo and the Bastion of Cerruglio
The fortress is entered from the steep slope that leads to Piazza Garibaldi.
The mastio, the higest part which also includes the ancient bastion of Cerruglio, is the oldest part of the monument complex; the head of the frotress is almost cylindrical in shape and is situated at the northwest edge.
It is completed on the opposite side by two square toers called the tower of the Aapparizione (in the west) and the Cerruglio, also known as the Santa Barbara tower (in the east), which creates an imposing, triangular-shaped layout.
The enlargment of the fortress dates back to the second half of the 15th century or the first years of the 16th, when a new shaped structure with a semicircular tower was added and the ancient keep was adapted to accomodate the new strategies of attack after the introduction of firearms. Other fortification work was carried out under the medici: Cosimo I ordered the bastions to be raised, but this was never carried out even though the work began again in 1592 under Ferdinand I.
No longer considered to be suitable for military purposes, the fortress was offered for sale by Pietro Leopoldo, Grand Duke of Tuscany, and it became private property in 1775. The restoration and maintance work on the monumental complex has been carried out by the owners themselves and it can be visited by appointment.
