Tusscany, The “Modi” Practical Joke of Livorno

My friends, to let you understand and feel the spirit of Livorno and people who lives in this incredible city, I thought about an old, very old story that for sure you cannot miss. Too funny!

This is the story of a huge practical joke involving one of Livorno’s most famous personalities, Amedeo Modigliani, and four ordinary young men, which took place 20 years ago in one of the nicest areas of the city, the Medici canal which flows in front of the indoor market.

The joke took place back in 1984, however to fully understand how it came about we must first go back to 1909 and discover a bit about the events which led up to it. It was in 1909 that Amedeo Modigliani, a young artist and sculptor who had just turned 25 years old, was hugely disappointed by the negative reviews that he had received from critics about his work and as a result decided to leave his hometown forever. His sculptures, which were completed in a figurative style of the beginning of the 20th century, that he had seen in Paris, and which were inspired by African art, were not to the taste of the local art critics and one critic even told the young artist that he would be better off just throwing them all away.

The general story goes that it was these criticisms which forced Modigliani to leave his town, dumping all of his failed works of art in a ditch in the process. His failed work actually consisted of sculptures of human heads, which were harsh and elongated in style and sculpted into the stone in a style for which his work was to become famous following his death. The ditch in which he dumped his sculptures (the name of which indicates the canals of Livorno which cross through the historical centre) would have been Fosso Reale, a ditch of the Medici Canal which goes from Piazza della Reppublica to Piazza Cavour, where you can see one of the city’s most well-known monuments: the 18th century Chiesa degli Olandesi, with its spectacular Neo-Gothic, yellow, stone facade and the impressive General Food Market with its tall, big windows which feature greek style colomns.

Now, in 1984, it is 100 years after the birth of Modigliani and Vera Durbé, the manager of Livorno’s Progressive Museum of Contemporary Art, decides to organise an exhibition of Modigliani’s sculptures, to celebrate his 100th year. Her idea, however, prompted an interesting challenge: The search for the legendary heads since they had been previously thrown into the canal by a young Modi. The quest was supported by the administrative council, who approved the dredging of the works from the ditch.

The excavation work took place in the sunny month of July, under the watchful eyes of many who stood waiting excitedly for any news of the recovery of these long-awaited works of art. Their wait lasted a week and on the eighth day three stone sculptures, scultped in the harsh, elongated style for which Modigliani was by now famous for, were successfully excavated, one after the other. They were presented to the many art critics of Livorno, who claimed that the heads were the original work carved by the hands of Modigliani immediatly after examining them closely.

At first, it seems that the story has a happy ending: Durbé’s dream was realised and art lovers from all over the world flocked to Livorno… but they were forgetting that Livorno is a city famous for its pranks and practical jokes and here it is always possible that things are not always as they seem. Therefore, after a month of much talk and awards regarding the three newly-recovered sculptures, three Livornese students: Pietro Luridana, Pierfrancesco Ferrucci and Michele Guarducci, came forward claiming to have sculpted one of the three heads, in the garden of one of their houses, using drills and other tools bought from a local hardware store. They presented photos of themselves in action and the splinters of stone pertaining to the sculpture in question. Then, on national television they re-enacted the creation of the masterpiece.

Not long after, a sculptor named Angelo Froglia laid claim to the other two heads. Angelo Froglia was, in fact, just an ordinary dockworker who was passionate about art and was a talented sculptor. He claimed that he came up with the idea to pretend to have sculpted these pieces as a way of showing how art critics are led more by market trends rather than their own perceptions and the true worth of each individual piece of work. Both the three students and Froglia achieved their goals as in the end the joke was on the art critics who had previously slammed the work of Modigliani.

Talk of these events lasted a while. Mainly due to the fact that too many acclaimed art critics had already declared the authenticity of the three heads. However, although it was, in fact, the three students and Froglia who had, separately, sculpted the heads which had been excavated from the canal, there were still those who thought that they were liars who had conspired together to pretend to be the true sculptors of the heads, and so continued to believe that the sculptures were the original work of Modigliani. The reality is that only in Livorno could two completely different, unrelated groups of people have come up with exactly the same successful practical joke.

Berlusconi VS Obama

Milan president Silvio Berlusconi is probably the only political leader in the world who also owns a football club. The media mogul and current Italian Prime Minister is certainly one of the most colourful figures in the world of politics, but sometimes his comments go a bit too far.

Back in 2003, he sparked great controversy by telling a German politician, Martin Schulz, that he thought he would be a good choice for the role of a “German kapo”, a Nazi official, in a movie being produced in Italy.

This time, it’s new American president-elect Barack Obama who is the subject of Berlusconi’s bizarre sense of humour. When asked if he thought relations between the USA and Russia would change after Obama’s election, he said (through a translator): “I think Obama will get along very well with the Russian president, because they are both young, handsome, and… tanned!”

Berlusconi referred to the fact that Russian president Dmitry Medvedev is four years younger than Obama, who will become one of the youngest US Presidents ever at 47 years of age.

Predictably, this has already raised a lot of debate in Italy, but Berlusconi is refusing to apologise, and defended his joke to Italian news agencies.

“Why are they taking it as something negative? If they have no sense of humour, worse for them,” he said. Later, he told Sky TV-24 Ore that his comments were meant to be “cute” and bashed those who disagreed, saying they are “imbeciles, of which there are too many.”

Other notorious comments made by Berlusconi include a claim that Western civilization was superior to the Islamic culture, which he said not long after the September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks, and more recently, that the current Spanish government has too many women.

Tuscany and Chateau Brangelina

Chateau Brangelina

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Brad and Angelina have made a serious commitment to to France!

Not only is the superstar couple set to give birth to their new twins in the country, but the Jolie-Pitts have just paid a reported $70 million for this estate on the French Riviera.

This latest property adds to their two houses in the Los Angeles area and their home in New Orleans.

Property’s always a great investment! Anyway, Tuscany is not so expensive and… have a look to Villa al Boschiglia

Tuscany – The sexy fountain

With the media bombarding us every day with the world drought problem, Lucca’s ever-flowing fountains are attracting more attention than ever.
Water deserves the value given it and our much beloved architect, Lorenzo Nottolini, would have been extremely proud of the extra attention currently devoted to his beautiful fountains in town. It was the Duchess of Lucca, Maria Luisa of Bourbon, whose statue you can admire in Piazza Napoleone, who decided in 1822 to have an aqueduct built to exploit the springs of the San Quirico torrent in Guamo.
Too many people in Lucca were falling sick because of the water; the wells in town were polluted and the problem of a public aqueduct had to be faced. Heavy taxes were imposed on the population to raise the amount of money necessary for the works, and in 1832 the water channelled through the aqueduct started pouring from the fountain located next to San Martino Cathedral.
The aqueduct is four kilometres long. The arches that run very gently down from the hills to the town begin in Guamo and end in the San Concordio suburb of Lucca.
There are 459 of them with an average height of approximately 10 metres, delimited at both ends by a neoclassical cylindrical stone temple with more than one role: hydraulic, to connect and link the underground pipes to the aqueduct, static because they contain the thrust of the arches and the third role is to decorate and complete the monument.
The Lucchesi refer to the aqueduct water as the water of “la Pupporona”, that is, of the lady with large “puppore”. If you look this popular word up in the dictionary you won’t find it: “puppore” in Lucca means bosom, so a “pupporona” is a lady with a large bosom.
This unidentified young lady, sculpted in neo-classical style, has surpassed the noble Duchess in fame. Her statue stands on a pedestal behind the fountain in Piazza San Salvatore – always referred to by the Lucchesi as Piazza della Pup-porona, because her dress, sliding off one shoulder reveals her bosom and so shows her “puppora”. In town we now have eight fountains which deliver water from the aqueduct.
The chemical-physical characteristics and taste of the water are excellent and superior to many mineral waters on sale. It’s tested daily and you can always see the Lucchesi filling their bottles and thereby getting good water at no cost. This water is also used by the Botanical Garden to water their large variety of azaleas and rhododendrons because of its acidic content.
The style chosen by Nottolini to decorate the fountains reveals his attention to the urban setting. He chose the white marble of Carrara and, apart from the Pupporona, geometrical shapes, such as the cylinder and the parallelepiped, often enriched with engraved masks.
A walk or a bike ride alongside the aqueduct is pleasant and interesting. Keep your camera at the ready, and abandon yourself to the pleasure of looking at such an important masterpiece of architecture, where Nottolini has succeeded in matching beauty and function.
In some way you will find the atmosphere of certain eighteenth century prints depicting the Roman country ruins.
You can start this enjoyable outing by turning left behind the railway station. At a glance you’ll see that the aqueduct is in a critical condition, due to structural subsidence, acts of vandalism, lack of maintenance and the continuous pillage of stones. But it still manages to fulfils the purpose it was built for.
Nottolini’s Aqueduct Duchess of Lucca Maria Luisa Porta S. Gervaso Piazza Antelminelli